Archive for July, 2007

Fuji Finepix F50fd

Thursday, July 26th, 2007
Paramo Grass

Also announced today, the Fuji Finepix F50fd came as somewhat of a surprise. It is specified as the 12 megapixels successor to the excellent Fuji Finepix F31fd and features builtin image stabilization. Personally, I expected more of a F41fd which would have an 8 megapixels sensor with ISO up to 3200 but more controls than the F40fd, similarly to the F31fd. Either Fuji engineers made another leap in sensor technology or they got a memo from the marketing department. Generally, Fuji has not been among the first to push the limits of sensor resolution but, if September availability is correct, they would have one of the first 12 megapixels digital cameras on sale.

Unlike the Fuji Finepix S8000fd, this camera seems to be the advanced model with manual exposure controls including shutter-speeds up to 8 seconds and a 2.7″ LCD which shows 100% coverage. Most likely this is the case because the S8000fd is of lower resolution than the S9100. Maybe they will announced an S12000fd by early next year. Hopefully such camera will have a mechanical lens, a full-range of shutter-speeds (30s+) and 100% coverage LCD.

With todays announcement of 5 new digital cameras, Fuji is continuing its trend of memory slots which accept both SD and xD cards. This is good news for consumers because SD cards are generally cheaper and much faster than xD cards. Also, this may remove some reluctance from people who already have an investment in SD cards to go with Fuji.

Fuji Finepix S8000fd

Thursday, July 26th, 2007

Today Fuji launched the Fuji Finepix S8000fd, an ultra-zoom digital camera with a 18X wide-angle optical zoom and a first for Fuji, built-in image stabilization. They did also simultaneously introduced several other models, some of which also feature CCD-shift stabilization. On one side it is great to see that this technology is becoming more common, but on the other it is sad that its inventors, Konica-Minolta, are no longer in the camera business.

Given an 8 megapixels sensor, an 18X optical zoom lens, ISO up to 6400 (at 4 megapixels), stabilization, this is a camera designed to impress from specifications alone. Unfortunately for the prosumer, this camera is based on the Fuji Finepix S700 (S5700 in Europe), rather than the advanced S9100 (S9600 in Europe) and S6000fd (S6500fd in Europe).

The S8000fd has some very serious limitations which are problematic for advanced users. First, the longest shutter-speed available is 4 seconds. Longer shutter-speeds are required for night-photography. Even though high-ISO compensates a bit, it always does so at the expense of image noise. The second major problem, frankly a very stupid limitation, is that its LCD and EVF show only 97% of the frame. Nearly every other fixed lens digital camera does better with 100% coverage. This removes one of the most significant advantages of having a live-view display. Speaking of the EVF, at 0.24″, it has got to be one of the smallest viewfinders ever made. Of less importance is the fact the S8000fd’s lens is electronic rather than mechanical like with the S9000 and S6000fd. Mechanical lenses are a pleasure to use due to their instant response and infinite precision, but very few cameras are equipped with them, and none with an 18X zoom.

Another change for Fuji is the use of a much smaller sensor-size. At 1/2.35″, the Fuji Finepix S8000fd’s sensor is about 40% smaller than that of the S6000fd. Now, we recently saw that the Fuji Finepix F40fd with its 8 megapixels 1/1.6″ sensor performed quite well but given that the S8000fd has the same resolution using a much smaller sensor, be prepared for a drop in image quality, although we would be happy if Fuji proved us wrong. Sadly, the smaller sensor is required to produce an 18X optical zoom lens in such a small form-factor, so this may be the case for marketing winning over image quality again.

Shooting From A Moving Vehicle

Wednesday, July 25th, 2007

Roadside Fruit StandIts not easy at all and rarely produces nice images, but there are ways to improve your odds of coming back with a some decent images. Shooting while in motion is difficult because it requires a very short reaction time from both the photographer and the camera. One good strategy to avoid any problems is not to shoot from a moving vehicle and have the driver stop each time a photo opportunity appears.

That is my usual strategy: if the vehicle is in motion put the camera away and enjoy the ride. It can be much more frustrating to keep trying to get a good shot than not to shoot and absorb the scenery mentally. Recently, on a long and scenic drive as a passenger, I decided to actually try anyways. A few decent images even camera back, although they were far in between.

Here is how to improve the odds of getting some good shots from a moving vehicle:

  • Cut down focusing time: Most cameras take pictures much faster when they do not have to focus. Among compact cameras, there is often a way to simply set the focus distance to infinity or to the hyperfocal distance of the lens. Casio calls the latter pan-focus, others sometimes make it part of a particular scene-mode. With a DSLR, switch it to manual focus (MF) mode and rotate the focus-ring until the infinity position. Care must be taken here because some lenses change the focus distance while being zoomed, while others allow focusing past-infinity which means that the focus ring cannot simply be turned all the way. It would be really nice if lenses had an infinity-focus-lock for such occasions.
  • Aim far: The further things are, the less they move relative to the camera position. This helps with framing shots and making sure that subjects remain in focus. At the same time, use a small aperture to increase depth-of-field.
  • Go wider: Since precise framing while in motion is hard, give yourself some cropping room by using a slightly wider focal length than needed.
  • Cut down thinking time: During the fraction of second when the desired subject fits in the viewfinder, it is not time to fiddle with the camera. For that, use a semi-automatic or fully-automatic mode with a metering mode which takes into account the entire scene. Multi-segment, center-weighed and average metering are all good for that. If the amount of sky varies greatly during motion, use exposure bracketing in half-stops.
  • Let the camera know what you need: Fully automatic modes like Program or Auto mode rarely choose the optimal exposure parameters for photography from a moving vehicle. It is possible to use program-shift but that takes time. A sharp image requires a shutter-speed fast enough to freeze the motion of vehicle. Small apertures greatly help with keeping subjects in focus, but too small apertures require slower shutter-speeds. If your camera is a Pentax K10D, the TAv mode is fantastic: set the shutter-speed to a reasonably fast speed (say 1/1000s or faster) and the aperture to something with a good depth of field (say F6.7 or F8), the camera will choose the appropriate ISO. Otherwise, you use aperture-priority mode with as high an ISO as you consider acceptable. That will make the camera choose the fasted shutter-speed which produces a properly exposed image. For cameras without manual controls, use the sports or action scene-mode.
  • Try again, automatically: Continuous drive and bracketing give you more pictures from which to choose the acceptable ones. Use continuous drive when the lighting situation changes slowly, exposure bracketing otherwise. Usually, 1/2 stop increments are best.
  • Get a good seat: Place yourself next to a window, so that you can open it. If it does not open, make sure both sides are clear before departing and use a polarizer to avoid seeing your reflection while taking pictures. Try to avoid the side of the vehicle which faces the sun. It creates scenes of very high contrast which can be impossible to expose properly. If facing the sun, try to minimize the amount of sky in the viewfinder.
  • Do not be the driver: Obviously. When an interesting subject approaches, ask the driver to slow down, particularly on bumpy roads. Keep the camera in the vehicle and use an appropriate neck or shoulder strap.